Paddling the Boo
by Seth Taft
Seth Taft is an archaeologist for the Minnesota Historical Society. His research background in archaeology particularly focuses on the Fox River of Wisconsin prior to European contact. Seth also serves on the Sauk County Historical Society board of directors. In his free time, he enjoys the outdoors in all seasons: From thru-backpacking, rock climbing and kayaking in the warmer seasons to cross-country and downhill skiing in the winter.
Photo by Seth Taft
The following is from a previous kayaking experience that I haven’t forgotten. It was from a few years ago when I was transitioning into a role as a park ranger for the National Park Service and during a day off, I needed a good sense of adventure. Choosing to paddle the segment between Reedsburg and Rock Springs was one that provided not just that, but additionally a deeper interpretation of the Baraboo River’s significance in the natural and cultural realms and how these are all well interconnected.
It is mid-morning; The air is still, and the sun is radiating a hint of summery heat. Regardless, the cool water feels refreshing on the feet as I stand at the boat landing in Reedsburg. While the sounds of vehicle traffic nearby make modern society evident, I hone into the orchestral tunes led by the intrinsic sound of chirping birds singing combined with the soft buzzing of insects and the gentle trinkling of the Baraboo River as it caresses each banked rock and pebble provide music to the ears. Today is truly a great day to immerse myself on the river.
I check my kayak once more to ensure I have all the proper materials for the upcoming paddle downstream: snacks, water, phone, PFD, but especially my paddle. After checking off items, I hop in and begin my escape away from the boat landing and embarking along the tranquil luxuries of nature.
The Baraboo River, spanning roughly 120 miles, meanders across a special region of Wisconsin. Navigating among communities and pristine landscapes that are located within the Driftless Region. Each twist and turn of the river showcase a unique view of the lay of the land. From rugged rocky outcrops and overhangs along the riverside to panoramic views of gentle rolling hills with farmsteads situated sporadically. The cultural and natural resources combined make for a unique trip on a special paddling trip on this part of Earth’s timeline.
Photo by Seth Taft
I continue to withdraw further away from Reedsburg. The river moves steadily and carries me along. Paddling is only intended for steering and not for speed as I meander this curvy course of the Baraboo. However, this segment bears challenges: Log jams. The first encounter meant strategy to determine the best way to get out and portage my kayak. Traversing through cold muck, I remain patient and remind myself that situations like this make the journey a fun-faired adventure. After careful maneuvering, I overcome the first log jam… Only to encounter another shortly thereafter. Chuckling, I navigate across this one and continue course.
The river continues to wind the further I go. I stumble across log jam after log jam, and with each attentive dodge I fear that the kayak trip is not to intended to go as relaxingly as I intended. However, the notion dissuades my intent. Rather, I look at each jam experience as being one of many who had to overcome similar obstacles over the countless years on the Baraboo River.
With my background as an archaeologist (an individual who studies the human past and their interactions with the natural landscape), I tend to enjoy my outdoor experiences and find ways to understand the experiences of those from long ago. Particularly, the riverine settings make me think the most. These locales long served as corridors to connect Indigenous people to each other and their resources. To bring abundant resources, share news and stories across far distances. To this day, archaeologists aim for such natural locations to find any remaining pieces of the human past and connect artifacts and locations to the present day. Even such things as log jams can provide a notion for the human past: Perhaps jams once were intentionally established by people residing along the river to trap fish and other aquatic resources like turtles and muskrat. Maybe even to stop weary travelers out of caution and to perhaps defend land and resources.
After many more confrontations of downed trees and performing moves like thread the needle to steer, the journey on the Baraboo River continues to showcase the most luscious scenery as I continue towards my end goal: Rock Springs. I float underneath historic bridges and take in the vast farmland with bluffs in the background. A ravishing sight. I take a moment to savor a light lunch, nibbling away with no rush or reason. Just feeling the moment of tranquility as I coast on with the river serving as my kayak’s cruise control. The way continues to bend and curve, allowing me to paddle plenty. Everything seems to be in balance on this day.
Photo by Seth Taft
Gradually, I make my way to one of the finest locales on the Baraboo River: Ableman’s Gorge State Natural Area. A place to awe all visitors, this geological exposure showcases the illustrious Baraboo quartzite and neighboring sandstone with steep exposing cliff faces that share a sneak peek at Earth’s forging tale. This is another moment where the past meets the present as I move gently along the waters. The sights envelop me from all directions, making one feel minuscule in time and space. Time in terms of the countless years it took for this rock and land to form (in comparison to my young double-digit age), and space in terms of immense size. Truly makes one humble in the grand scheme of it all.
Passing through the illustrious gorge, I cruise the final stretch to the boat landing in Rock Springs. I paddle up to the landing and get out, stretching my legs and coming to terms with the fact that I must return to the regular routines of regular life. While it is hard to fathom that I spent the better part of my day out on the water, it was one filled with wonder. I was captivated in adventure, surrounded by natural beauty, and often pondering on the longstanding interconnection between the Baraboo River and the humanity. The notion that the river continues to endure both on its own and supporting diverse species in a multitude of ways gives me a sense of understanding for its significance. This paddle was truly therapeutic, additionally providing the extra special gift of learning along the way.
